All You Need To Know About Board And Batten

All You Need To Know About Board And Batten

Wood siding that comprises restricted vertical strips (battens) introduced over a level base (board) is known, sensibly enough, as board and batten

It’s been famous for a long time on the exterior of houses as well as storage sheds, barns, and other farming storehouses; it’s since become the pattern as a trim to add visual interest to interior walls. 

Read on to advance about board and batten — from its water-shedding unique use to its flow decorative appeal, as well as its expense and installation points of interest for open-air and indoor applications.

From Practical to Just Plain Pretty

With the appearance of sawmills in eighteenth Century America, home development started getting away from entire logs (as in lodges) and brickwork towards stumble. 

A skeletal casing would be built, over which long level boards were connected to frame a climate-safe obstruction. 

Introducing boards upward urged downpour to run down along the beyond house as opposed to leak in. 

Adding battens to cover the creases between the bigger boards gave additional climate sealing security.

The enormous level boards tended to twist, notwithstanding, and by the last part of the 1800s, even lapped siding (tight flat boards introduced from the base up, with each ensuing board lapping the one underneath) demonstrated more productive at shedding precipitation and so turned into the standard. 

Today, board and batten siding is furnace dried to reduce warping, and it’s introduced over framing, sheathing, and a fume hindrance to loan more noteworthy primary respectability.

All things considered, any sort of wood utilized outside ought to be impervious to dampness and bug damage. 

Cedar is a typical decision for exterior board and batten siding, however other satisfactory wood species incorporate Cyprus, redwood, insect, white oak, and hemlock.

Board and batten moved inside in the last part of the 1800s as a method for forestalling the gouges and dings on the lower piece of mortar walls, brought about by hurried seats and other ordinary knocks. 

Around the mid-1900s, board and batten turned into an attractive “look,”, especially in cottages, Arts and Crafts, and Country style homes.

While board and batten trim can be introduced on a whole wall, from floor to roof, or any level you want, the most famous interior application is around 32 creeps up from the floor, like beadboard covering. 

Cost Considerations

Introducing board and batten exterior siding is more costly than vinyl siding however tantamount to the cost to designed wood and concrete fiber siding. 

Siding is estimated and assessed in “squares,” with each square containing 100 square feet. 

Both cedar and redwood are tantamount in cost, running from $500 to $650 per square while involving 1×12 boards for the wide boards and 1×2 boards for the smaller battens. 

The expense to introduce Cyprus, grasshopper, white oak, or hemlock runs about $250 to $400 per square. 

Add another $15 to $50 per square (for a block of wood) to seal, color, or paint the siding after it’s introduced, and for the screws, caulking, and furring strips expected for installation (see underneath).

Managing interior walls with board and batten is undeniably more affordable because no baseboards are utilized — the battens introduce straightforwardly to drywall, which substitutes for the more extensive vertical boards utilized in exterior siding. 

It’s additionally conceivable to utilize less expensive wood, like pine, since interior walls shouldn’t need to stand up to the components.

Rather than squares, the standard is to assess the expense of interior board and batten per direct foot. 

For instance, to introduce a board and batten covering (32 inches high), utilizing 1×4 boards (dispersed 12 inches separated, for example), and introducing a flat top board and a baseboard (of a similar aspect), you’d pay roughly $3.00 to $4.00 per straight foot. 

The expense will increment if you decide to situate the battens nearer together or broaden the battens higher on the wall. 

Add another $1.00 to $1.50 per square foot for paint or polish, in addition to the nails and paste expected to introduce the boards.

The Ins and Outs of Installation

If you have essential carpentry abilities, including the capacity to quantify and cut the boards exactly, and you’re open to utilizing a roundabout saw, a caulking weapon, and a pneumatic nailer or screw firearm, you can introduce either kind of board and batten — the exterior siding or the interior trim. Interior board and batten trim are a lot more straightforward to introduce, in any case, because less work is involved, so it’s more qualified for the novice do-it-yourselfer.


This is the way the interaction unfurls:

Introduce furring strips. To safely join the upward level boards to the exterior of your home, you’ll have to introduce flat furring strips, which give a primary casing on which to connect the boards.

Furring strips can be made by appending 1×4 boards on a level plane to your home’s plywood sheathing, separating them 24 inches separated, and nailing them to the studs underneath the sheathing.

Measure and cut – This are where accuracy comes in, and the familiar axiom “measure two times, cut once” applies. Measure from the underside of the soffit to ¼ inch underneath the highest point of the establishment. Utilize a round saw to cut the closures of the boards.

Leave holes while introducing boards – Regardless of what sort of wood you pick, it’s probably going to expand and contract somewhat because of climate varieties, and assuming the boards are squeezed firmly against each other, the tension could cause warping. To hold this back from occurring, as opposed to butt the highest point of the boards firmly against the soffit, leave a ¼-inch hole. This will put the lower part of the board ½ inch underneath the highest point of the establishment, which will assist with safeguarding the wood ledge plate, situated on the highest point of the establishment, from the downpour. In like manner, keep a ¼-inch hole between the upward boards as you join them to the furring strips.

Utilize excited screws, which don’t rust or erode, so you won’t wind up with rust colors on your wood siding.

Add a top trim board. When the upward boards are set up, introduce a top trim board (utilizing battens), situated evenly and ran firmly into the soffit. 

This will cover the ¼-inch hole and give you something to butt the top finish of the battens into.

Join the battens. The battens ought to knock firmly into the top trim board and be flush at the base with the more extensive vertical boards. 

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While the width of the battens is your decision, they ought to be sufficiently wide to cover the edges of the bigger boards by basically ½ inch on the two sides.

Caulk, then, at that point, paint or seal the siding. By running a dot of caulk in the creases on the two sides of the battens, you’ll make a water-safe seal that holds water back from leaking underneath the siding.

Utilize workable exterior plastic caulk if you intend to paint the siding, or pick clear exterior plastic caulk assuming you will apply an unmistakable coat seal to the siding.


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